Grand Dads Cj5

I got it today but struggling to find the gear ratio. 76 was a split year some got the narrow ratio and some got the wide. This is a t-18 1b. 77-79 were all wide ratio. He said he took it out because first was useless so I took his word. Spinning the front out put and counting the rotations of the front while watching the rear keeps coming up with 13-1. I'd just really like to verify it before getting all excited.
6B9D440B-A0EE-4F1F-85CE-1F2B524D4235_3.jpg
 
Thanks for confirming that. I was just reading to much. Some trans reverse is left and back then some out and up so I was not sure I was in first then the 4wd stick was labeled and it's not the j pattern like a lot of cases. Just up and back so I wasnt sure where low range was either. I think between this trans and scout 300 I've lucked on the best drivetrain I could ever hope for. This combo pre 4.1 case gear Era was mega money.
 
Yes it was. I think I paid $800 for my t18, and that was over 10yrs ago. For the shift pattern, I think the only difference is reverse. It should be to the right either way. Earlier models are right and forward. Later are right and back.
 
From some research this intake doesn't exactly scream performance. Its call an Edelbrock Torker. Its a single plane and from the specs was built for a big engine that will rev. But for my application I'm hoping for just a few more Hp's and the ability to use a more off road geared carb. While the Motorcraft 2100 is said to be one of the best carbs ever it takes a lot of tuning and old school tricks to run well off camber.
 
If that intake is replacing an original, you might feel a seat of the pants gain from the weight loss. I pulled an intake off a friend's wagoneer 360 and it must have weighed 60lbs.
 
So my bolt in swap wasn't exactly bolt in. Well kinda, you just to have to have everything that goes with the the t18. Torque plate, drive shafts and clutch arm. The torque plate is 1/4 plate vs the t150 pot metal, front drive shaft is roughly 3+" longer and the rear about 2" shorter and the clutch arm is notched to clear a big bolt the t18 uses. Luckily for me I found the guy I bought it from and I swapped him everything I had for what I needed. So now it's ready to bolt in.
Except I can't get away from playing Mr Mom. This mama duty is some time consuming bizzness.
 
So my bolt in swap wasn't exactly bolt in. Well kinda, you just to have to have everything that goes with the the t18. Torque plate, drive shafts and clutch arm. The torque plate is 1/4 plate vs the t150 pot metal, front drive shaft is roughly 3+" longer and the rear about 2" shorter and the clutch arm is notched to clear a big bolt the t18 uses. Luckily for me I found the guy I bought it from and I swapped him everything I had for what I needed. So now it's ready to bolt in.
Except I can't get away from playing Mr Mom. This mama duty is some time consuming bizzness.
no kidding.
 
So my bolt in swap wasn't exactly bolt in. Well kinda, you just to have to have everything that goes with the the t18. Torque plate, drive shafts and clutch arm. The torque plate is 1/4 plate vs the t150 pot metal, front drive shaft is roughly 3+" longer and the rear about 2" shorter and the clutch arm is notched to clear a big bolt the t18 uses. Luckily for me I found the guy I bought it from and I swapped him everything I had for what I needed. So now it's ready to bolt in.
Except I can't get away from playing Mr Mom. This mama duty is some time consuming bizzness.
You have it easy right now just wait until that swing no longer makes her happy. I will trade you for the day you cant take your eyes off my little one for two seconds or he is gone you saw that the other night haha.
 
Are you doing a hydraulic clutch? If so, make sure you reinforce the mounting ears on the bell housing. It's no fun to replace the bell housing when it breaks off.
 
Are you doing a hydraulic clutch? If so, make sure you reinforce the mounting ears on the bell housing. It's no fun to replace the bell housing when it breaks off.
Im not, just keeping the stock clutch set up. I have the clutch in and twin sticks mounted on the transfer case. Just need a couple hours and its done.
 
Not really anything pic worth but I did find a few hours yesterday to put the trans in. My parents came up so I could catch my breath from babysitting. Everything slid right in place nicely. Lucky Amc used the same skid on all these jeeps with multiple holes for different trans combos. I was hoping to drive it this morning but being I added the 300 instead of using the D20 it pushed my rear driveshaft just a little to long. Called Carolina Driveline and got a quote. So here in a min I'm going to just order 2 completely new driveshafts. Getting closer.
 
Driveshafts are ordered. 2 complete new shafts makes me feel better about riding the family around in it. I don't see how a stock cj front driveshaft don't twist up just looking at it.
 
Drove it for the first time last night. Im blown away at the low range it has now. I haven't really run the numbers but I swear its very close to a Yota with 5.29's and 4.7's in the case. I need to space the skid down and maybe shim the rear end up. This rear driveshaft is only 17" long and its about at its max as far as ujoint angle. Carolina Driveline shafts are nice and .120 wall to boot so I'm not to worried about them for my application.
 
Finally put this intake and carb on I've had for months now. While I was at it I put the york compressor on. It cranked right up and runs smoother than ever. I think it may need some tuning though. Kinda wants to die if I stab the throttle quickly. After it got good and warm it seemed to do better. I mean not that I'm looking to hot rod it and launch it at full throttle and need instant response. Or could just be a trait of using not exactly the perfect intake for what I did. Ill drive it some more tomorrow and let it get good and warm and try again. Overall I'm happy with how smooth its running compared to the 1978 Motorcraft 2100. Getting closer to Oscar ready.
 
Top