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What did you do to your rig Today? V2.0

you will want the flexible mount at the trans, it allows a lot more movement than the two bushings mounted all the way out at the frame. I have seen a few examples of breaking the transmission bell housing from having it mounted with just the motor mounts and the frame mounts at the skid.
I've seen the same thing happen back when I was racing cars. That usually happens when a motor mount goes weak, or fails. The added motion from the bad mount gives it more leverage, and can crack the bell housing.
It's a big risk to take with a Chrysler since the bell housings are mostly integral.
 

LBarr2002

LIFETIME
SUPPORTER
you will want the flexible mount at the trans, it allows a lot more movement than the two bushings mounted all the way out at the frame. I have seen a few examples of breaking the transmission bell housing from having it mounted with just the motor mounts and the frame mounts at the skid.
With OEM clamshell type motor mounts or with bushing in tube style? OEM mounts allow a lot more movement, especially with worn ones, and I could see that happening. I was going off the trans mount kit from the same company I got my motor mounts (I didn't order the crossmember).

https://davescustomsunlimited.com/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit/

"The universal kit mounts to the inside of the frame above the skid plate. It allows the skid plate to be removed without lowering the transmission and transfer case assembly.

This well-engineered kit is designed to eliminate the factory center transmission mount, which will be mounted solid to the supplied plate. Furthermore, the urethane bushings at the ends of the new crossmember will act as the new transmission mount. The factory design was very poorly designed. It acted like a tripod. The engine was mounted solidly with two mounts and the transmission with one mount, which in return, the transmission wants to torque MORE than the engine. This is why guys/gals tear up their transmission mounts or crack their adapter housing. With our well thought out, unique design, you now have FOUR engine and transmission mounts, which will allow everything to torque the same, furthermore, alleviating blown out transmission mounts and cracked adapter housings."

I may actually go with something like this from advance adapters, which goes with the tcase adapter kit I'm using, and acts as a partial spine to reinforce the mount. Still with a removable crossmember, but it could be hard mounted at the frame.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716055--heavy-duty-transmission-mount/
 
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With OEM clamshell type motor mounts or with bushing in tube style? OEM mounts allow a lot more movement, especially with worn ones, and I could see that happening. I was going off the trans mount kit from the same company I got my motor mounts (I didn't order the crossmember).

https://davescustomsunlimited.com/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit/

"The universal kit mounts to the inside of the frame above the skid plate. It allows the skid plate to be removed without lowering the transmission and transfer case assembly.

This well-engineered kit is designed to eliminate the factory center transmission mount, which will be mounted solid to the supplied plate. Furthermore, the urethane bushings at the ends of the new crossmember will act as the new transmission mount. The factory design was very poorly designed. It acted like a tripod. The engine was mounted solidly with two mounts and the transmission with one mount, which in return, the transmission wants to torque MORE than the engine. This is why guys/gals tear up their transmission mounts or crack their adapter housing. With our well thought out, unique design, you now have FOUR engine and transmission mounts, which will allow everything to torque the same, furthermore, alleviating blown out transmission mounts and cracked adapter housings."

I may actually go with something like this from advance adapters, which goes with the tcase adapter kit I'm using, and acts as a partial spine to reinforce the mount. Still with a removable crossmember, but it could be hard mounted at the frame.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716055--heavy-duty-transmission-mount/
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...930-help-breaking-transfer-case-adapters.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/new...ssion/2387650-motor-crossmember-mounting.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/404437-tranny-x-member-mount.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...8-removable-skidplate-crossmember-design.html

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/182679-crossmember-mount-question.html

I have a Ford T18 and Dana 300. I had an adapter and built a crossmember that bolted directly to the adapter. Had bushings only on each end of the xmember where it attached to the frame. I ended up breaking the adapter. At that point, found two things: 1) the adapter had a casting defect and 2) my method of mounting was wrong. There HAS to be a bushing there. I posted about it and that was the consensus, although in all my searches to that point I had seen them without bushings. Go2Guy and others said nogo on my setup. The basic idea is that the assembly has to be able to rotate slightly. My method didn't allow for that. High5 also built one like mine and broke the adapter.

tons of info on pirate about the tripod style mounts. I don't have time to go through all of it. I'm just telling you I have heard lots of horror stories.
 

LBarr2002

LIFETIME
SUPPORTER
Its settled then. I'll have to see what I have on the 4l60, but I'll either use a stock type mount or the AA spine mounted to a rigid crossmember.
 

LBarr2002

LIFETIME
SUPPORTER
Finally got around to the winch install in the trailer. I'm one bolt short so quit for the day.

I made a battery tray from aluminum angle.
20180826_150836.jpg

I got a tractor supply winch plate to hold the fairlead, but had to make some blocks to get it up above the bottom of the door.

20180826_161920.jpg

20180826_161859.jpg
 
Yesterday the Comanche got New AC compressor, accumulator\dryer, expansion valve, complete flush, new o-rings, and the last fitting on the lower condenser fu****g self destructs!!🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
Currently awaiting a new condenser, and line to the accumulator\dryer. So still no AC until Wednesday!
 
I had a CARR light bar years ago but removed it, and ended up selling it. CARR made these to bolt directly into the windshield frame, so for years I've had plugs in 3 holes on each side of my windshield. I started looking at getting a replacement a few years ago, but CARR had long since stopped production of that design.
A few weeks ago I found someone on Facebook marketplace selling one a few weeks ago. Worked out payment & shipping, and finally got a light bar again
Now to pull it back off, put some fresh paint on, and mount my LED bar! c086e23e0189d7880c74eb3a3c8917fa.jpg
 
Got the Engine and gear boxes put back on the Rover chassis. Reinstalled the radiator and put its pretty face back on.
Getting real excited now to start putting it back together.


 
I am not sure. I am hoping by January. It is busy time for me because football season started and now i work 6 days a week. But I have most everything to complete it except for driveshafts.
 
I’m not a big fan of mounting a hi lift jack on the hood, but I’m running out of real estate in the back of the cj, still need to decide where to put the spare tire



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I’m not a big fan of mounting a hi lift jack on the hood, but I’m running out of real estate in the back of the cj, still need to decide where to put the spare tire



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ditch the tailgate, build a rear tire swing that puts the tire right over the rear sill into the cargo area. You don't run a full top on that CJ anyways, so it's not interfering with that, and it's using several inches of what is normally wasted real estate.

Just a thought!
 
Ditch the tailgate, build a rear tire swing that puts the tire right over the rear sill into the cargo area. You don't run a full top on that CJ anyways, so it's not interfering with that, and it's using several inches of what is normally wasted real estate.

Just a thought!
Im thinking about building a swinging tire carrier, my tool box, strap box, and my fridge cooler sit in the rear cargo area


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I changed the spark plugs today. One of the quirks of Xterrs is that one needs to remove the intake plenum to get the passenger side bank of plugs. So, since I alreeady had that labor done, I installed an intake manifold spacer.

Really good torque increase down low and in the middle. 9eb5f4771cb784a66a6d2988defdf427.jpg e659e6e9e592c9b2a0ece986a5ff6713.jpg

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