if your willing to fork over 10k for axles go ahead and buy some already built from somebody's truck.
Buy this jeep and swap it all on your jeep...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=983923
beadlocks, cage, 60s, winch, steering, atlas... you coldnt buy all that stuff for 20k
Buy this jeep and swap it all on your jeep...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=983923
beadlocks, cage, 60s, winch, steering, atlas... you coldnt buy all that stuff for 20k
the axles already have detroits and 300m shafts, you get 35" krawlers, beadlocks, an atlas and a longarm kit.
I cant see how the axles could be to abused with 35s on d60s, the beadlocks look good, the krawlers look good. The atlas it bulletproof...
you would end up spending alot less even if you regeared the 60s with new gears and bought a new longarm kit. plus you could sell all the stuff off that jeep you dont need...
I think it would be worth an email asking for more pics. and if you get some forward them to me.
I cant see how the axles could be to abused with 35s on d60s, the beadlocks look good, the krawlers look good. The atlas it bulletproof...
you would end up spending alot less even if you regeared the 60s with new gears and bought a new longarm kit. plus you could sell all the stuff off that jeep you dont need...
I think it would be worth an email asking for more pics. and if you get some forward them to me.
these axles are both High pinion and 6 lug which I'm thinking means rockjock/solid/prorock
if your looking for a 60 from the junkyard to put in a TJ you want a 1978-79 Ford front 60 and there are a number of rear axles you could use all of which depends on how you want to build it and how much money you want to spend.
if your looking for a 60 from the junkyard to put in a TJ you want a 1978-79 Ford front 60 and there are a number of rear axles you could use all of which depends on how you want to build it and how much money you want to spend.
Are you looking at racing in ECOR's? IIRC class B will acomadate up to 40" tires. But you have locker limits. IIRC you have to be able to say yes to 3 of the 4 items. As for the Tru Hi Nine.... I would not run it. Too much $$$ for not enough reliability. Bigwoody on NC4x4 ran one and broke it 3 times. The last two were with cryo'd gears. He does run and LS with an atlas in a buggy though. If I were to build a tj to drive to the trial and run in the ECOR's race I'd keep it with factory front an factory D44 rear and keep the tires to 35's with alloy rear shafts and RCV's up front. Lock rights front and rear. JMHO!
After further discussion with those involved, I am going to build the axles from junk yard shells (or from someone here that wants to get rid of some D60s). You'll understand why a little later. With that in mind, I want to fill them with good stuff. So far I understand that I am looking for 78 or 79 ford front axles. What brand of components should I shop for to build those up and what rear should I look for. Thanks a lot for your time and input.
Somebody break down the strength levels of 4x4 axles. Can you put them in order of which ones are the most durable? Dana 30, 35, 44, 60, 70 ... Corporate, 8.8, 9", ....
I have read some about the Dynatrac Trail-Series 44 and the Pro-Rock 44. Where do they fall into this whole mix. I see the Trail-Series comes as a complete package but the Pro-Rock is basically a shell. Any input?
I have read some about the Dynatrac Trail-Series 44 and the Pro-Rock 44. Where do they fall into this whole mix. I see the Trail-Series comes as a complete package but the Pro-Rock is basically a shell. Any input?
Here's the thing...depending on your use, the strengths will change.
Front low pinion d30, is less than the high pinion d30 which is less than the. D44, but only slightly as the d44 uses the d30 axle tubes and ball joints. The savvy d44 is different still from the tj d44.
The rear, a d35 is when weakest, followed by the d44, the corporate 8.25, then the 8.8 then the 9". Problem is when you get to the 8.8 and 9", the hoising gets bigger to tje point it starts to get in the way of ground clearance....the 8.8 is acceptable, but the 9" and up will require plastic surgurty to the housing to shave it down....anything over an 8.8 really is overkill for anything 37's....
Front low pinion d30, is less than the high pinion d30 which is less than the. D44, but only slightly as the d44 uses the d30 axle tubes and ball joints. The savvy d44 is different still from the tj d44.
The rear, a d35 is when weakest, followed by the d44, the corporate 8.25, then the 8.8 then the 9". Problem is when you get to the 8.8 and 9", the hoising gets bigger to tje point it starts to get in the way of ground clearance....the 8.8 is acceptable, but the 9" and up will require plastic surgurty to the housing to shave it down....anything over an 8.8 really is overkill for anything 37's....
The difference between the dynatrac trail series and pro-rock is the housing. The pro-rock is a high clearance center section versus the trail series which is basically and run of the mill center section with beefed up tubes and ends, and the pro-rock obviously has a higher price tag. You can get the pro rocks prebuilt through some vendors, I know that northridge4x4 is one of them.
Some other factors that also need to be discussed in order to get a better picture of your axles needs will be drive train (specifically torque and hp) and weight of the rig. Here is another option for some custom built pieces:
http://www.rokmen.com/drivetrain-mechanical/axle/complete-assemblies.html
A lot of guys run these out west with some 40 spline full float craziness amongst some other bells and whistles. I can remember some first gen moon buggies running tweaked motors with dana 60 fronts and 9 inch rears. These guys would beat the mess out of those things and they would take every bit of it.
Some other factors that also need to be discussed in order to get a better picture of your axles needs will be drive train (specifically torque and hp) and weight of the rig. Here is another option for some custom built pieces:
http://www.rokmen.com/drivetrain-mechanical/axle/complete-assemblies.html
A lot of guys run these out west with some 40 spline full float craziness amongst some other bells and whistles. I can remember some first gen moon buggies running tweaked motors with dana 60 fronts and 9 inch rears. These guys would beat the mess out of those things and they would take every bit of it.
FYI: This should give you a good idea on axle strenghts:
For your info, Warn did a test:
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500
For your info, Warn did a test:
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500
Ok, that's informative. Now I have a question. Looking at the strength list that 06TJX posted, the 8.8 is pretty strong. With a little research it looks like you can pick up a used 8.8 from a junk yard for $150-$500. Then get the Super 88 kit from Superior Axle (for under $700) and you have a hell of an axle. Am I missing something? Because the way I see it on one hand you have a D60 for at least $3000 or an 8.8 for just around $1000.
Theres a lot more to it then that, but after talking to brooks and a few others i've never even heard of people breaking anything with a 8.8, but people arent running over a 37s from what ive seen. Guys with mustangs run a lot of HP through them and keep them alive so you should be straight. It all depends on what you want it for and how careful or how much of a dumbass you are with it to keep it alive.
You can find alot of these questions you've asked by searching on jeepforum, they arent the most hardcore group of people, but there is some knowledgable ppl on there that put stuff out easy enough for anyone to understand, even though you have to wade through the bull**** sometimes to find it.
You can find alot of these questions you've asked by searching on jeepforum, they arent the most hardcore group of people, but there is some knowledgable ppl on there that put stuff out easy enough for anyone to understand, even though you have to wade through the bull**** sometimes to find it.
The 8.8 is a strong axle. It is not quite as cheap as you think thouh. Yes you can get an axle for 160 at pull a part, but it will be 3.73 gear ratio, so you will have to regear. That's about 5-600 without a locker. Add a locker and your easily over a grand. Then you need to decide if you are going to keep the factory short arm set up, which will run about 300 to have the old brackets removed and have the tj brackets added, or go with a 4 link that will greatly improve ride and off road performance for aboit a grand. My 8.8 is going to cost about 2500 once it is all said and done and that's with a 4 link and Detroit truetrack limited slip, not a locker.
FWIW If you are going to run 37's or bigger get a $50 D60, bore the spindles for $50, disk brakes are $315 from Gubni on NC4x4, 35 spline shafts are $100 each, if you need 4.10's they could be in the axle if you want deeper gears gearsets are about $150 - $200 pluse a spool or full case locker. The gears and locker are money you are going to have to spend anyway. So for about $1300 - $1500, depending on the locker or case used, you would have a 35 spline axle that all you have to do is put brackets on. If you build some of the brackets with .25 x 2" flat you might save a few $$$4's. If the plan is for 35's or smaller run a TJ D44. The 8.8 is a good axle but do not forget about the getting the tubes welded ot the center.
I've never understood why people waste their time with 8.8's unless it's to replace a Dana 35. (If that's what you're planning to do and leave the Dana 30 front that's understandable.) It's still a C-clip axle and there's a ton of extra stuff you still have to buy for it after sourcing one. Not to mention it's still a narrow axle. Go ahead and swap in real axles. Dana 60 front, 14 bolt/D70 rear. You can build a 14 bolt or 70 rear for dirt cheap because they already have ff 1 1/2" diameter shafts, ridiculously strong housings and easy to find parts. Take the money you save building the rear and spend it on the front 60. I've wheeled 37's with half ton axles and it's a huge limiting factor. Not being able to really get on it and push your rig to the potential of tire size will end up pissing you off after a while. Marginal don't cut it. Being overbuilt is something you'll never regret!
Just my two cents. And don't believe the myth that a full width axled rig can't go where a narrow axled rig can. It's BS. In 5 years of wheeling FW axled rigs I've never not been able to take it anywhere. Stability and strength FAR overshadow.
Just my two cents. And don't believe the myth that a full width axled rig can't go where a narrow axled rig can. It's BS. In 5 years of wheeling FW axled rigs I've never not been able to take it anywhere. Stability and strength FAR overshadow.