The Hi-9 is a pretty sweet piece of equipment. And that would bump the price. But I don't see anything that mentions a 40 spline version. Also, looking at Currie's website, they have a F9 Fabricated frontend housing that looks just like the diamond setup/design for a fraction of the cost. Any input? Link here: http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=3717
I wouldnt do 60/14bolt unless you going to go with atleast 37s. Your going to lose ground clearance under those axles with small tires. 37s would be the MINIMUM, Id say 40s would be good.
I wanted to go that route with my rubicon but not feasible with funds that I want to spend.
Id say check around and look for rubi44s you got gears and a good axle. Some say rubi axles are weak but when you run 35s-37s and wheel hard anything could be weak. Im on 33 right now but Im thinking of getting 4.88s next time around due to power I lost. Its not bad but I dont like it. Too much power got lost when I switched to 33s.
Id say start with 2.5 lift and 265s power was decent there.
Definitly look in too rubi44s though. I dont think you can go wrong with those. All depends on what size tire you want to go with. Some people wheel fine with 44s and 37s, its just boils down to how hard you wheel.
I wanted to go that route with my rubicon but not feasible with funds that I want to spend.
Id say check around and look for rubi44s you got gears and a good axle. Some say rubi axles are weak but when you run 35s-37s and wheel hard anything could be weak. Im on 33 right now but Im thinking of getting 4.88s next time around due to power I lost. Its not bad but I dont like it. Too much power got lost when I switched to 33s.
Id say start with 2.5 lift and 265s power was decent there.
Definitly look in too rubi44s though. I dont think you can go wrong with those. All depends on what size tire you want to go with. Some people wheel fine with 44s and 37s, its just boils down to how hard you wheel.
Like a few others have already said, your max tire size kind of drives your axle needs. Personally I'm not a huge fan of rockjocks and would suggest dynatrac prorocks or even their trail series rear axles. You'll need to decide on semi float versus full float and the topic you already brought up of 35 versus 40 spline if using 60s.
Another option for fabricated housing using 9 inch carriers is spydertrax. You can go directly to them or through rokmen who also make some pretty pimp TJ and LJ gear.
Another option for fabricated housing using 9 inch carriers is spydertrax. You can go directly to them or through rokmen who also make some pretty pimp TJ and LJ gear.
who is sponsoring it? you mentioned racing it, Do you plan to drive it to the trails and races? What kind of racing? If its setup as a good driver it wont be a great offroader and if its setup as a great offroader it wont be a good driver. What do you really want to do with this jeep? or what do your sponsors want you to do with it?
I can't say at the moment who is putting up the money. I'll be able to within the next 2 months and you guys will be the first to know. We want it to be a strong trail capable (rock crawler) that can be driven to the trails. That was the original intent. But after going to the races over the weekend, I might look at putting in the ECORS series, but not sure.
Racing Gets expensive quick and it is a total disreguard for equipment. Just keep in mind if you have 60s under the jeep and are on 37s you would be in C class and racing against full on KOH buggies. I dare say you should spend some time on the trails and figure out what you need. Experience goes a long way in offroad driving.
But seriously. If you're going to do an axle swap, do it once and be done with it. Just about every hardcore wheeler that's serious about wheeling hard s**t is going to end up running one ton axles one day. Swap them in from the get go and it may very well be the last axle swap you'll ever have to do. Half ton axles IMO is a crucial step in the learning process if they're full width. You get to experience the many benifits of being full width so when you do decide to swap in one ton axles it's not a total mindf**k. I don't regret doing the halfton axle stage but it would have saved me a ridiculous amount of money if I had just started with one ton axles.
That's what my entire goal is. To jump to the final step. I read so much about swapping to this and swapping to that. I all seems like a waste of time and money. I want to invest in the best/most durable now and not have to worry about it again. I do have a ford 302 (built, approximately 325hp) that I eventually want to put in it. But I'm going to run the current engine until I kill it. That will probably be a long time. But that's another discussion. Back to the axles.