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Mean Green

VOLT

SUPPORTER
#1
My transfer case came in last week. Looks to be in good shape. I hope to install it next week or so.
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I finally got around to cutting off my improperly setup shock towers. Well one of them at least, the hangover is relentless. Headed back out now for the other. I still have not decided if I will french some towers in, just use towers on outside of frame or use some tube towers.
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Do you guys think that these yokes that have been bound up and slightly ovaled would cause hella vibration? I have had a terrible vibration since last time at Harlan before I had limit straps. I believe either the vibration cause the output to eventually break or the output was already partially broken and it was causing vibration. I'm just wondering if I should have this shaft rebuilt anyway to be safe. Hell it only has like 100 miles on it! Does that look bad enough to cause hella vibe? The damn flange on my shaft is slightly smalled than the flange on the Rubi case so I guess that yoke will be new anyway. So that just leaves the one yoke in question.
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Back to my hangover.
 

VOLT

SUPPORTER
#5
I finally pulled the old case out. I have to do some welding on the inner frame rail before installing the Rubi case though. My upper front three link bracket needs to be welded while I can get to it. It was just bolted at the back and welded in the front.
I also finally got around to cutting off some of the factory control arm brackets.
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Still have the other side to do. I also sanded, painted and siliconed my rockers. Turns out thats where all the water was entering my jeep from when it would sit for a while. Now that the body is crinkled up the water could sneak right in on top of the rocker. Not anymore. And man did i booger some silicone up on the first side, my side.
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I also cut all the old shock tabs off.
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These are my helpers Lawrence and Miller.
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VOLT

SUPPORTER
#7
I instsalled the case yesterday, although my transmission mounting bracket will not fit over the case where the larger planetary gearset is. Do I need to get a transmission mount bracket from a Rubicon model to make it work?
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VOLT

SUPPORTER
#8
On Brook's advice I called Harry at Carolina Driveline and it sounds like he made a new Trans mount bracket that will clear the 241 Case. This also moved up the case into the floorboard so he fabbed up a body lift to clear. If mine hits the floor the saw is coming out. They will also be building my shafts.
 
#9
On Brook's advice I called Harry at Carolina Driveline and it sounds like he made a new Trans mount bracket that will clear the 241 Case. This also moved up the case into the floorboard so he fabbed up a body lift to clear. If mine hits the floor the saw is coming out. They will also be building my shafts.
what paint are you using on everything under your jeep? is it flat or some sort of semi-flat?
 

VOLT

SUPPORTER
#10
I use flat black on everything. I used to use duplicolor but I got some rustoleum this time and it sprays 1 million times better.
 

VOLT

SUPPORTER
#11
I believe I have the trans mount worked out although I have yet to reinstall it. The shift links will have to be modified and whether or not the floor will have to be cut is yet to be determined. I am working on it this weekend and will post up. It looks like it going to hit the tub but not by much.
 
#12
I got the case back in today. I had to cut a small section out of the tub to make it fit but its under the false floor so you cant see it while in the Jeep.
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Yes I know it says 241J but there is no question that it is a Rock Trac. I almost threw up when I saw that though.
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You can see the spacers I used to drop the mounting bracket enough to make it clear the case. These are wheelchair axle spacers that I got from our warehouse at work. I went to Tractor Supply and they were $14 ea. WTF.
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#15
Lets just say the 241 in a TJ year is the rock trac. It may say OR, it may say J. The 241J in a JK model is not. Fair enough?
 
#16
Yes, thats why I cut the floor since the case would be that much higher when the skid is flat. I have the skid on now. It got dark before I could really inspect everything though.
 
#17
It was too dark to work on that. I had already flipped the pivot mount under the tub to raise it up a bit and I drilled a new hole lower on the pivot mount that sits atop the case. I'm not sure if that could possibly make sense but we will see tomorrow.
 
#18
somethings tells me you might need to add motor mount spacers to get the driveline angle back in check after raising the angle with the new trans mount. Might be something that you need to look into, as the angle of the motor-trans-tcase can lead to binding your rear CV up when you rear axle droops. I had to mess with some things to get my driveline angle in check with the raised mount for the 44RE, stak, and belly up skid combo.
 
#19
Yea I will definately address that. I believe you will be correct. I dont want to ruin another freshly built D shaft at OscarII.
 
#20
This shifter is gonna be a bitch as i already have the skid back on and modifying it now will be tough. I ordered some over the knuckle steering bolts, 7/8 hiems and tube to redo my steering. Got some arms from Will coming too. Gonna order king coilovers for the rear with the poly towers and cut an inch off of the front coils now that the drag link will be lower.
 
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