Guzzy Build

The 4.0 isn't far off. I think the turn key motor was around 700#.

Yeah this one has all accessories and fluids.

Got some stuff in from metalcloak. I won the $100 gift certificate, but as some of yall know, I'm not looking to put tube fenders on this thing yet. So I picked up some of their billet aluminum shackle mounts for the front bumper.

Currently I'm running a trimmed down stock bumper which leaves little room for light mounting. I had mounted the lights right near the edge and they crowded the towhooks, and when hooking anything to the hooks it was easy to knock the lights. I figured these would allow me to hook to the shackle out in front of the light and eliminate that problem. They look to be of really nice quality and I also got a new Bro Hat to boot!



I stared by removing the old towhooks and taking off the lights, When I ordered them I didn't even think about the fact that they would interfere with my warn winch plate. But they do.


So next step was to cut off about an inch on each side and throw some paint on it. I'm hoping this summer to repaint the winchplate and winch, so I'm not to worried about the plate paint right now, it was too cold to do a whole lot of painting.


Then I threw everything back on to see how it looked. I dont mind the look and I think it will give me an easier time hooking up straps and whatnot to the front tow points. Anyone need some used towhooks?

So I started tearing into the 4.0 and I'm a little worried. This motor came out of a 99, but on the valve cover the datecode says 97. And I had seen that the waterpump gasket was not installed properly which had allowed the waterpump to leak all over the block, so I disassembled it until I could get the pump off... What I found was not comforting. I dont know much about motors, I'll be the first to admit that, but I know they shouldnt be full of rust in the water jackets. HOW DO I FIX THIS? What Can I do to clean all this out?

Meh I wouldn't worry much about a date code. Every 4.0 is old now. As far as the rust in the block, not that big an issue either. Somebody probably ran water instead of coolant. Once she's sealed back up just flush the hell outta it. Cousin ferd started with this before cleaning and it doesn't seem to have any ill effects. No overheating or anything.

not worried about the date of the motor, but if its a 97 motor that means its not original in the 99TJ that I bought it from and the mileage may not be accurate. Thats why I'm wondering.

Meh, she could have just chilled on the shelf for awhile. Mileage is pretty low on my concerns for a 4.0. I've driven some with well over 200k that ran flawless and I've had one within 100s that made all kinda of racket but ran perfect and didn't burb oil. I've learned a 4.0 will basically run forever but they will get terrible fuel mileage and make plenty of noises doing it.

Jimbo...I'm know, I have a noisy high miles 4.0 currently.... I'm trying to put something with less miles in when mine eventually goes. I'm hoping to just do a refresh and replace gaskets and waterpump on this one.

The rust is fine but depending on what you are doing, it can be completely sorted.

Are you doing a complete rebuild? As in, re-boring and installing new pistons? If so, then that means you are taking the engine down to the block and you are taking the block, crank, connecting rods, and cylinder head to the machine shop. The machine shop will hot dip everything and all that rust will go away when it comes out.

How "rebuild" are you rebuilding?

I'm hoping to just do a refresh and replace gaskets and waterpump on this one.

depending on how long I have to tinker with it, I have entertained the thought of stroker, but I dont want to lose the reliability of a stock 4.0.

Fair enough. I did a full engine rebuild back in high school. Definitely learned a lot but your way is going to be a lot easier.

It should still have the sticker in the doorjamb, or you could run the vin.

Do you not have a title?

Ahh.... It was rolled right? Good chance of that being the case. There may be some tags or stamps on the frame to identify it. I know every panel and piece of a toyota has a stamp or a sticker with the VIN. I would think that atleast one place on the frame would have the VIN stamped into it.

http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=408750

Didn't mean to trash up the thread but Brooks can start a new one for us with his magical powers.

Brooks, since you have such limited space on the top of your front axle, maybe you could use a tab on the front/back of the axle and use one of these (each side).
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Clevis-Mounting-Sleeve-p-16400.html

I have room for the mounts, the part issue I'm having is where the strap goes when the suspension compresses, If I put it where I want to and where it clears most stuff, it will fold right into the bump stop landing pad. I'm going to redo my hydro lines this weekend and see if I can make more room by rerouting them.

Got my new hydro lines made and installed them. I routed them down the back of my trackbar this time and it looks much cleaner and I dont see it rubbing anything this time. And I plan to clean up my old hoses and put them in my tool bag as spares.

with the new hoses it is really nice to have no wet look under there, the other hoses never really dripped, but they were always moist. These new hoses are looking good.

Found out why my arb compressor kept running, I was checking for leaks last weekend and found that its leaking from pump itself. I'm talking with CFS to see about a warranty claim or if we can just repair it. Hope it holds on through OSCAR as I dont think I'll have a chance to mess with it before then.

looks like my compressor is leaking between the aluminum housing and the plate on the right side. From my reading it seems there is an oring that is prone to failure.