i got a question regarding this topic as well. what do you do about your main brake line? i'm trying to figure this out and can't find much info online.
also how do you get the tj brake line that comes off the frame to meet the t fitting on the axle on an 8.8?
should i just call up crown for a custom one? cause i'll be stretching about 5 inches or so.
edit: should have just said, the soft line on it, but not the soft line going to the calipers.
also how do you get the tj brake line that comes off the frame to meet the t fitting on the axle on an 8.8?
should i just call up crown for a custom one? cause i'll be stretching about 5 inches or so.
edit: should have just said, the soft line on it, but not the soft line going to the calipers.
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You can find genrights used pretty often, they are sweet for sure. I plan on just scooping an RCI cell and sinking it into the back of my tube, my frame is tucked up pretty high and just building a little frame for it off of it then throw some UHMW on it possibly. I would like to try and cover it to get rid of some of the fume and pump noise, it isn't that noticeable from what i have seen but if i have a break available i'll do so.
Im not sure why people dont push the front as often as the rear, it is some work but it will help balance the weight going some in the front. I hope that the new suspension up front on mine will solve my tires in the fender issue if not i'll be pushing it 3" but i dont want to sit longer then 103" on my final WB.
Mason just extend the line. Most run a line on the driver upper to go down to T on the axle and then branch off from there.
Im not sure why people dont push the front as often as the rear, it is some work but it will help balance the weight going some in the front. I hope that the new suspension up front on mine will solve my tires in the fender issue if not i'll be pushing it 3" but i dont want to sit longer then 103" on my final WB.
Mason just extend the line. Most run a line on the driver upper to go down to T on the axle and then branch off from there.
I know that but it's not that much more effort to rotate the box when your talking about doing all the other parts of stretching. Think you can get 2-3" on stock box location and then a few more rotated, think my bumper may cause some interference with the box moved but nothing a little notching cant fix. Or just say screw a box and full hydro and stretch the front as far as your penis will let you.
As someone else already said earlier, you can pick up genright tanks used for a lot less than buying one new. I scored mine, which came with the sender/pump unit and the sender ring tool, from a guy in NC for like $500. Granted finding a used genright comp tank would be ideal, but there appears to be more used ext tanks out there for some reason or another. Another option for mounting a fuel cell would be to sink it into the rear floor of the tub. A few guys I used to wheel with in Colorado went this route, but also tabbed a skid for the bottom of the cell even though it didn't hang lower than the rear of the frame if I remember correctly.
As for the link situation, do the triangulated four link and be down with it. I couldn't even imagine wasting time trying to relocate the rear trac bar, especially with as many flavors of bracketry there are out there that you can use. Just remember that if you're going to keep coils in the back you will need to move the buckets back on the frame and will more than likely need shorter rear coils depending on how far back you go. Also go ahead and outboard your shock mounts using the weld on rear mounts that you notch out the frame and then french the new mount into the frame. This way it will be easier to upgrade to coilovers, air shocks, or ORIs in the future.
As for the front stretch, as Brooks and a few others said, its kind of a pain unless you're going to full hydro. If you want to squeeze 2-2.5 (3 tops) inches in the front you can move your buckets and shock mounts back on the axle, cut off the stock trace bar frame side mount and replace it with a new shorter weld on style (I used TNTs), and run a flat or twisted pitman arm (I used the genright set up). You will need to run a 1 inch body lift for the pitman arm to clear the bottom or the radiator, or you could always see if you could move the mounting holes up to create enough room. I've also seen guys extend the front part of the frame an inch or two in order to move the steering box further forward and also rotated flat to achieve more front stretch.
Anyway, my 2 cents on the subject.
As for the link situation, do the triangulated four link and be down with it. I couldn't even imagine wasting time trying to relocate the rear trac bar, especially with as many flavors of bracketry there are out there that you can use. Just remember that if you're going to keep coils in the back you will need to move the buckets back on the frame and will more than likely need shorter rear coils depending on how far back you go. Also go ahead and outboard your shock mounts using the weld on rear mounts that you notch out the frame and then french the new mount into the frame. This way it will be easier to upgrade to coilovers, air shocks, or ORIs in the future.
As for the front stretch, as Brooks and a few others said, its kind of a pain unless you're going to full hydro. If you want to squeeze 2-2.5 (3 tops) inches in the front you can move your buckets and shock mounts back on the axle, cut off the stock trace bar frame side mount and replace it with a new shorter weld on style (I used TNTs), and run a flat or twisted pitman arm (I used the genright set up). You will need to run a 1 inch body lift for the pitman arm to clear the bottom or the radiator, or you could always see if you could move the mounting holes up to create enough room. I've also seen guys extend the front part of the frame an inch or two in order to move the steering box further forward and also rotated flat to achieve more front stretch.
Anyway, my 2 cents on the subject.
Google is pretty easy and provides lots of info.
http://www.google.com/search?q=tj+r...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
http://www.google.com/search?q=tj+r...s=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1030498
Came across this build. I like a lot of the things he did, the read headlight lense is not one of them.
Came across this build. I like a lot of the things he did, the read headlight lense is not one of them.
