Shackle help

LBarr2002

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#1
I've been talking to Brooks about ditching the leaf springs all together and linking the rear of my Samurai. But, I've decided to concentrate on my engine swap and save some money for our Mexico vacation in a few months :), so I need to improve the leaf spring setup for now.

I'm running CJ front 2" lift springs on the rear with missing link shackles:
P3280493.jpg

The shackles annoy the **** out of me. They unload, pop, bang, clang, and cause nasty axle hop... I want them gone. Here's dimensions of the missing link:
Image.jpg

Brooks built me a nice anti-wrap bar that I don't want to change, so I need new shackles to put the spring at exactly the same spot. As you see from the drawing, if I did a straight bar shackle it would have to be 7 3/8" at an angle of 50 degrees from vertical...

I was thinking do a boomerang shackle that is the same dimensions as the existing shackle, but cut out of a single plate, and inverted, like so:
newshackle.jpg

Will this work? Any ideas on a better way to do it? Should I just buy new shackle mounts and move the frame mount back 4"?
 
#5
Just use a straight shackle. Boomerangs preform the same just help out with clearance issues. As for thickness mine are all 3/8 and seem to work just fine with not cross brace. 7 3/8 is kinda long though. I usually don't like the idea of shackles longer than 6 in going to this would only lower you 5/8 in, and I would feel a little more secure about it.
 
#6
I didn't even notice them when I road with you. I would just get some 2inch 3/8" bar and drill them at the 7 3/8" that you need. Then add the center brace and call it done. Sounds like you aren't looking for a permanant solution, but one to get you through until you can link it later on down the road. Ideally you would move the mount back, but it looks like your bumper is in the way. At 7 3/8" they are on the long side of things.
 

LBarr2002

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#7
I know a guy that knows a guy that can cnc cut them pretty easy and it won't cost me much extra to do the bent shackle, so is there any disadvantage to it?

Clippa, riding in the snow like we were you couldn't really tell, but if it flexes much it starts getting annoying.

David, I don't want to shorten them any because that will increase the angle...
 
#9
There really shouldn't be much of a downside to making them look like your sketch. It shouldn't take more than a couple minutes on a CNC table to cut them out. Make sure that when they cad them up they get rid of any sharp angles to remove the stress risers. Basically put a radius instead of corners. I wouldn't shorten them up any. Another option would be to bolt some UHMW down where the shakle contacts the frame. This will pad it and get rid of a lot of the noise. It won't help the unloading any though. I know on my table it wouldn't take but around 10-15 minutes to make something like that, and it is a slow table because I don't have a high end plasma.
 
#10
Revolver shackles would still do all the same stuff he hates about his current shackles.

The one problem that I see now after looking at it again is this. If you build a shackle that goes from you current frame side mount to the leaf spring, your shackle angle is going to go really lazy on you. You may not be able to do this without moving the frame side mount back.
 

LBarr2002

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#11
Revolver shackles would still do all the same stuff he hates about his current shackles.

The one problem that I see now after looking at it again is this. If you build a shackle that goes from you current frame side mount to the leaf spring, your shackle angle is going to go really lazy on you. You may not be able to do this without moving the frame side mount back.

If I used a straight shackle, it would be 7 3/8" long at 50 degrees from vertical (the dotted line in the drawing). The boomerang is basically the same thing, just looks better in my opinion. What do you mean by the angle is going to go 'lazy'?
 
#12
By going to the single shackle you are effectively moving you pivot point forward. Your springs will now have more leverage against the shackle. It isn't very likely that it will sit at that 50* angle. It might sit there, but more than likely it will kick up towards the frame more.
 

LBarr2002

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#13
By going to the single shackle you are effectively moving you pivot point forward. Your springs will now have more leverage against the shackle. It isn't very likely that it will sit at that 50* angle. It might sit there, but more than likely it will kick up towards the frame more.
Yeah, I understand now... I'm going to get a price to have them cnc cut. If it's not too much I guess I'll just do it and see what happens. I can always go back if it doesn't work.
 
#15
we could just move the shackle mount back 3 inches or so and run a single shackle.
This is your best option. You will be much happier if you go this route. I'd have to go out and measure the angle of the shackles on my sammy, but they are laid back further than the upright shackle on your drop shackle setup.

The single shackle you would use in this setup would be much shorter and much stronger.
 

LBarr2002

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#16
The mounts can't go back any farther without going onto the bumper. That plate just behind the mount is the mounting plate for the bumper. The bumper is bolted on, so don't want shackles on it.

If I can get a price on the shackles I'm going to try it until I can link it.
 
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