Welding Ground

WolfGT

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#1
I've been around a lot of welding over the years and never seen this before. I was going through a build thread on pirate and seen this.

passMM.jpg

Anyone done their ground connection like this? Does it work well?
 
#4
My concern is that the magnet or the case wouldn't cut into the "surface" to get a good connection. It could be a high resistance connection until it got hot enough to burn through the crap(ever noticed the arc spots next to your ground clamp) and then actually spot weld the mag/housing to the material your maging it too. My 2 cents. I like Tackin a piece of flat stock on and then attaching the ground clamp to that if its something that the clamp cant side over or around.
 
#6
I've got one...helps out if your ground clamp isn't large enough to easily clamp onto what you're working with. As with any welding you do...cleaning the surface for a good ground and joint are always important.

My concern is that the magnet or the case wouldn't cut into the "surface" to get a good connection. It could be a high resistance connection until it got hot enough to burn through the crap(ever noticed the arc spots next to your ground clamp) and then actually spot weld the mag/housing to the material your maging it too. My 2 cents. I like Tackin a piece of flat stock on and then attaching the ground clamp to that if its something that the clamp cant side over or around.
The magnets don't provide the ground...the center piece is copper on mine and has a "foot" in the center of the magnet that makes the connection. The magnet is very strong so it typically works well.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTGoI2DAotMCQ9AOEIUyb6eX0jQX5IcNizXayNN__B9DhCnpBKN.jpg

They make all sorts of them too...I like the ones that are designed to work well with round tube...

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQfRRsJgaylv0j0yvlSLRnBFn2Slk0KgU-kkveVRlXZzCSfCEx0.jpg
 
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#8
Those are good but the magnet wears and falls apart. I would only use one if I was welding something like a manhole cover shut lol. The best thing out there is the clamp that came with it. Where I work they dont want carbon touching stainless or niconel or vice versa. So what we do is take a old tig torch and cut the copper wire apart then braid a loop into it. All you have to do it snug it the the metal and your grounded. Just remember with grounding always ground as close to your weld area. DCSP and DCRP can destroy bearings and electronics. For example: if you have to weld your shock mount back on your rear axle DO NOT ground on your rim or lug nuts. The current with travel through your bearings and spinder gears. If your using SMAW ( stick ) your using DCRP the current heat it locally at the rod. This is a dangerous issue for bearings. However if your going to run the FCAW ( inner shield flux ) the weld process is DCSP like GTAW ( tig ) current is locally at base metal. This will not cause damage to bearing as quickly than DCRP. Heres a current flow diagram
DCRP stick <<<< base metal
DCSP wire >>>>> base metal

Also heres a clip for the text book: Currents With direct current the welding circuit may be eitherdc straight polarity (DCSP) or dc reverse polarity(DCRP). When the machine is set for straight polarity,the flow of electrons is from the electrode to the plate,which creates considerable heat in the plate. In reversepolarity, the flow of electrons is from the plate to theelectrode, thus causing a greater concentration of heat at the electrode. The intense heat at the electrode tends to melt off the end of, the electrode and may contaminate the weld. Hence, for any given current, dc reverse polarity requires a larger diameter electrode than dc straight polarity. For example, a1/16-inch diameter tungsten electrode normally can handle about 125 amperes in a straight polarity circuit.However, if reverse polarity is used with this amount ofcurrent, the tip of the electrode will melt off.Consequently, a 1/4-inch diameter electrode will berequired to handle 125 amperes of welding current.

No one ever really looks at arc marks but under a microscope an arc mark is composed of thousands of cracks. On a frame this wont hurt a damn thing at a microscopic level, but for a bearing this can lead to catastrophic failure. The gap in bearing when electrons pass through them will create arm marks. Always pay attention to your ground points. It would suck to rebuild a engine because of a little welding. Hope this is some good info for yall
 
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