Need some input

#1
Ok so I bought a Firebird for my DD so that I could start on my Jeep... I was going to do the work this summer but some of you may rember from the other fourm my house got hit by lighting and that took my build funds... So I have been saving a little and I am going to start this winter on the build.. Here is what I am wanting to do any input would be helpful... While I was in Alaska I tossed around the idea of the 4bt-A swap... I think that this is a great swap if you can find the right doner... It is a good bit of work though... This is all going into a 04 wrangler x 4.0 5 speed... I am currently running Genright 3"Hirise fenders and smittybuilt src front and rear bumpers... I want to stick with the Irock 39.5's

OK for the list now

4bt-A or 5.7
d60's front and rear
custom 6" long arm stretch 7" front 5" rear
 
#3
Ok thanks brooks would I be able to run 15" rims??? If not what size do I need to run I have a near new set of 39.5x13.5R15's reason why I am asking...
 
#4
Ok thanks brooks would I be able to run 15" rims??? If not what size do I need to run I have a near new set of 39.5x13.5R15's reason why I am asking...
if you grind the calipers and run 2.5" of backspacing it will work, but I would see if you can sell those tires and get some for 16 or 17" wheels.
 
#5
if you grind the calipers and run 2.5" of backspacing it will work, but I would see if you can sell those tires and get some for 16 or 17" wheels.
X2 on what Brooks said. I run h2s on my 60/14 bolt combo and there isn't much caliper/wheel room to play with. Granted h2s don't have much backspace and I'm running the ford 1ton twin piston calipers in the front and chevy 3/4 ton calipers in the rear. Also if you're going to keep the tons full width you are going to be super wide with 15s.

As for the motor, are you talking about a 5.7 vortec or a 5.7 Hemi? You could drop a truck Hemi and 545rfe in there for not too terribly much, but I have a feeling that a 4bt swap would get expensive. Granted I have no experience swapping diesels into rigs nor much experience with 4bts, but do mess with my duramax quite often. I have done a few motor swaps into TJs, XJs, and a OBDI swap into a CJ and they weren't to terribly bad. Worst part is always meshing the harnesses, well if you do them yourself like I did. There are some schools of thought that merry with some state emissions laws where you can swap an older motor into a newer vehicle, or at least it was like that in Colorado when you had to have your rig smogged.

Also if you're going to go with that much stretch in the front you are going to need to do some serious steering reconfiguring. Are you planning on going with full hydro?

As for the rear stretch are you going to run a genright tank or a fuel cell?
 
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#6
there is a company selling caliper brackets to use chevy 3/4 or 1/2 ton calipers on the cevy 60 that allows you to run 15" wheels with normal backspacing, but at that rate, if your trying to stop 40s, why take the downgade in braking. If your doing all this I would pony up for some new wheels and tires.

on a build not, i would scrap the 4bt swap as it makes less hp than your stock motor, yeah it has more torque, but is it worth the loss of hp. you could swap in a v8 for much cheaper and have plenty of power.
 
#7
#8
I am leaning to the V8 the 4bt-A was when we were in Alaska and was kinda kicking around the idea of staying up there the diesels are great up there... I am going to stay full width so I will go start looking for tires and wheels also... I am planing on doing a full hydro also... Thanks for everyones input I will take everything this will be my first big build...
 
#9
I am leaning to the V8 the 4bt-A was when we were in Alaska and was kinda kicking around the idea of staying up there the diesels are great up there... I am going to stay full width so I will go start looking for tires and wheels also... I am planing on doing a full hydro also... Thanks for everyones input I will take everything this will be my first big build...
I know two people who have done full hydro and drove it on the street a good bit...its an interesting animal to say the least. and both of those were done well. maybe with a double ended ram its better, both of the full hydro setups on the street I saw were single ended rams so that they could get faster turning.
 
#11
yes, some of them return to center and some dont. i cant see that link till I get home. You may want to drive a full hydro jeep on the road before you commit to doing it to yours.
 
#12
I am leaning to the V8 the 4bt-A was when we were in Alaska and was kinda kicking around the idea of staying up there the diesels are great up there... I am going to stay full width so I will go start looking for tires and wheels also... I am planing on doing a full hydro also... Thanks for everyones input I will take everything this will be my first big build...
Depending on what kind of rig you ultimately want it to be, is what I'd determine with the motor. For a mainly trail rig and occassional DD I think a v8 is best bet. Hell the 4.0 in it now can be pretty nasty and people have made gobs of power for probably cheaper then an entire motor swap. I like diesels and would love to swap one in some kind of rig just to be different but probably not my trail rig.

I've never had or driven a full hydro rig but I personally wouldn't want to have one I drove on the road for any period of time. I know if you do it right you can make it ride nice but I just don't like the idea.

I'm on my phone and can't tell or remember but is your tj a rubi?
 
#13
It will not be somthing that drive everyday just every now and then... I want to be able to drive it on group runs and poker runs for charity events... Steve it is just an TJ... I will be using my Firebird for my DD...
 
#18
Stretching that much in the front will take relocating and clocking the power steering gearbox and using a different pitman arm. Like mentioned above, an astro box and arm are an option. Something else to look into with that much stretch in the front is trac bar, drag link placement in relation to the frame and in conjunction with the amount of lift. If you plan to go low you might run into needing to redo the front of the frame from around the front clip forward. I'm currently running a psc box with a genright twisted pitman arm and can pull 3"s out of the front but plan on messing around with stetting the front more this winter.

Also you haven't mentioned what type of suspension you plan on running. I would assume coilovers front and rear with at least a 3 link front and triangulated rear.
 
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